How To Change Fuses In A PWD or PWT

July 11, 2013
 by Paul McGowan

Fuses make a significant contribution to the way your system sounds. Making sure you have the best sounding fuses in place can many times make a big difference in performance.

The fuse values for these units are 1 amp slow blow and each will use two (2) 5x20mm 1 amp slow blow fuses

1. UNPLUG unit


2. Place a soft protective cloth on the work table to prevent scratching the PWD/PWT top

3. Place the unit upside down on the work table

4. Attach a ground strap from your wrist to the center lug of the AC input power connector so you don’t damage the PWD/PWT with a static discharge.

5. Remove the four flathead screws shown in the red circles with a small Phillips screwdriver

6. Tilt the unit up vertically on its side with the AC input power connector closest to the workbench

7. Using a small screwdriver, push the lid equally from each of the four holes where the cover screws were removed. This will work off the lid until you can grab it with your fingers or it will fall off of the chassis. Lower the lid to the workbench.


8. Disconnect the ground wire from the lid using pliers.

9. Lay the PWD/PWT chassis on the workbench.

10. Lift each fuse out of the socket by the fuse cover. One is shown removed, below, next to the Bridge guide rail. There are two fuses per PWD/PWT.


11. Replace the fuse with a 5 x 20 mm, 1 amp slow blow, 250V fuse, Schurter part number 0034.3117 or equivalent.

12. Reinstall the fuses.

13. Tilt the unit on its side with the AC input power connector facing down against the workbench.

14. Reattach the ground wire to the lid.

15. Slide the lid into the chassis.

16. Lay the chassis upside-down on the soft cloth on the work bench. Seat the lid into the chassis with any pressure as required. Reinstall flathead screws.

14 comments on “How To Change Fuses In A PWD or PWT”

  1. This method is not complete or some units are built differently like my PWT I had to remove 12 screws from the base and when I pulled out the base the LCD screen is attached by a copper strip to the metal lid inside and it goes under the cover so no chance of removing and the screen its self is connected by a copper strip with all the connections for it to work . So when I pulled the base out it ripped out the connection for the LCD Touch screen making the transport now not useable , depending on replacement cost it may not viable to repair so if you are thinking of opening up the PWT check the TOUCH SCREEN before pulling out the bottom to get inside of your PWT .

  2. I am about to change the fuses in both DSD/PWT; but can’t get any pictures from the website. ( Maybe because I am in the UK ). Because they are available here, and Signature Audio has told me that it is OK with PSAudio, I am going to use 4 ( in total ) Synergistic Research 1.6A 250V slow blow red quantum fuses. However, I need a picture of which direction they should face in each machine.
    Can you please point me at where I can get an illustration that I can open? Many Thanks, Horace11.

  3. Like Horace, I can’t see any photos on this page either. It appears the links are broken. However, I’m in the U.S. and won’t attempt it on the blind. Any chance we could get some working photo links? Thank you.

  4. Yes, that would be very helpful ( but there are no photos), if Support Service provided some visual aids on ” How To Change PWT and DAC fuses”, that would be nice.

  5. I am in the USA and cannot see any pics here as well 🙁 The first post by shihan171 doesn’t lend one much confidence in changing out the fuses.

    1. I’ll try and get the pictures back up. Sorry about that! Been hectic. The first poster didn’t do it right. Do NOT remove the bottom cover. There are 4 screw to to remove from the bottom, one on each of the four outer corners. Once removed it is the TOP COVER that comes off and provides easy access to the internal fuses. In the meantime, go here:
      And open the middle tab below the product photo, labeled Features and Video. Watch the video of how to install the kit. The first task is to remove the top cover, which is all you need do to get inside.

      1. Hi Paul,

        My PerfectWave II just died. I was listening to some music and all of a sudden the music stopped and the monitor screen on the PW II went out 🙁

        I am hoping it is just the fuse and will attempt to open it up to see. It would be helpful if the pics above these posts describing the fuse replacement were
        visible 🙂

        I have plugged the power cord into my old Schiit Bitfrost to check if the outlet works and the Bifrost does power up.

        If a fuse replacement fixes it, I may even then try an upgraded fuse. I’ve read some good reviews on the Synergistic Red and Black fuses that I may try.

        Thanks for the link you suggested on opening up the case, I’ll give it a whirl.

      2. Watching the video on how to remove the top lid was interesting- there is no way the lid on my PWT came out that easy. Because of the “press fit” caused by those EMF tabs, coupled with the instructors recommendation to only screw in the threaded rod 6 turns (I used #4-40 stainless screws 1 1/2 inches long instead), trying to exert any pressure on the 4 screws evenly is difficult (trying to force the top off evenly to where you could grab a top corner) only resulted in the 4 screws bending the sheet metal flanges that the top is attached to, the screws collapse to the side, and I’m sure wreaked havoc on the #4-40 tapped holes. The instructors top came off like a breeze, almost to the point that it looked like it had been removed a first time prior to the video shoot. Well my PWT has a bad power supply, blowing fuses, so off to Boulder for repair!

  6. Removing the cover is a real pain in the ass…. I don’t know why PS Audio constructed it the way that you have to punch trhu this tiny holes . In my case it resulted in a bended screw driver 🙁 And putting back the cover ain’t easy as well since you have to put it very accurately to be able to fix it back! 🙁

  7. I have to agree with Arcus7’s sentiment. I’ve taken off the cover of 2 dacs several times between upgrades and fuses and never done it without damaging the cover and/or case a little, no matter how small a slotted head screwdriver I use. And the side gaskets, they are a true pita. I tried taping them and they still don’t stay. This last time I just gave up after 40 minutes and left them after the’d fallen loose inside. Btw, the instructions for where to use the slotted screwdriver to pry the case don’t seem to make sense, because by the empty screw holes, vs. the corners, the case is at its closest to the edge.

  8. If you get a set of four allthreads to screw into the place where you remove the 4 cover screws and than put the unit right side up on a thick towel push down evenly on the sides and the top will rise up. You can than lift it off. Very easy with the right tools! You can get the allthreads from PS Audio.

    1. I’ve got a million tools and I don’t have anything remotely skinny and long enough to poke up through those holes if that’s what they are describing to do. It’s really unclear if that’s what they are saying.

      1. OK….I finally got it. You have to push up into the holes kinda sideways against the threads. But still, that was one of the more difficult things I’ve ever done.

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