To spike or not to spike

March 21, 2021
 by Paul McGowan

13 comments on “To spike or not to spike”

  1. I happen to agree with Paul on this one.
    I’ve heard spiked speakers before.
    They leave room for many things to be desired.
    If I own a pare of really heavy speakers, and I do right now.
    I will put them directly on the floor without anything underneath them except the carpet that’s already in the room.
    Because, to me, they sound best when they’re not spiked.

  2. On 35kg speakers on carpet over boards I use Isoacoustic feet – spikes made the sound less focused, just carpet made it dull. I use Isopods under all sources. I’ve played with all manner of other materials over many years, these work best for me.

  3. I suspect to spike or not also depends on the nature of the surface the speaker is on.

    I’m a fan of tight bass with minimal overhang. If the music playing doesn’t sound real with tight bass then perhaps the problem is the recording.

    But I sympathize with Paul. My woofers are designed to be ported of stuffed port. The difference, ported vs closed, is an analog of Paul’s description of looser versus tighter bass. Looser is more alive in a way. Bit stuffed gives more information

  4. I used, Mod Squad – ‘Tip Toes’ (solid aluminium cones) fixed to the bottom of the loudspeaker cabinets with BluTac on my 1976 (vintage) floorstanders…isolation.
    However, I’ve found that sitting my brand new (2020) floorstanders on bamboo chopping boards (from IKEA), interleaved with 6mm thick cork sheets, absorbs extraneous cabinet vibrations & improves the sound quality…absorption.
    You need to experiment with all available tweaks (isolation or absorption) to find what works best for you in your listening environment.

  5. Spikes are definitely a way to couple speakers to the floor, not to decouple them.

    I wouldn’t use spikes on a parquet floor, but then I’m not a committed audiophile.

  6. This is taken from the YouTube site comments for this video:

    W
    W
    18 hours ago (edited)
    I recently improved not just the bass but the entire sound stage by decoupling from the floor.
    The San Francisco Audio Society in an interview with the Audiophiliac mentioned that if your speakers are on a cement slab in the basement adding an absorption barrier between the speaker and the cabinet helps to prevent the slab from becoming part of the problem. First tried dense foam between the the castor wheels on my speakers and the carpet over the slab. WOW. Much better. Ultimately I used rubber floor savers for under furniture.

    Michael Porter
    Michael Porter
    13 hours ago
    I have found the best sound from my system is achieved through the use of spikes/discs/antivibration pads/concrete pavers: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1C1w4HcZuThrTxImadujOdftffK3s_2K3?usp=sharing . If you have wood flooring or some other flooring material which is relatively smooth and hard, and you don’t want to ruin it with concrete pavers being set upon it, use the antivibration pads under the concrete pavers, one near each corner and one in the center.

    W
    W
    1 hour ago
    @Michael Porter Thanks for sharing these pics. I believe you have effectively decoupled your speaker stand from the floor. The mass of concrete floating above the floor would absorb any vibration that makes it through the spike/disk/antivibration pad/ sandwich. This is precisely the approach I take when attempting to isolate smaller electronics from the world around them. Nice job.

    Michael Porter
    Michael Porter
    1 hour ago
    @W Thank you.

  7. A Martin Logan rep told me to get a couple of pieces of granite made the size of the speaker bottom (Summits) and place the speaker on that which is sitting on the top of the rooms carpet. This “floats” the speaker and also give a solid surface for the down firing 12″ bass driver. I have loved that setup since I applied it 15 years ago.

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