DSP vs passive for crossover

April 20, 2022
 by Paul McGowan

3 comments on “DSP vs passive for crossover”

  1. This is just my take on passive crossovers.
    If you’re gonna match them to off the shelf drivers, there are a cupple of things you’ll need to take a very close look at.
    For starters, take a close look at the specs on your drivers.
    And once you know what they are, find an off the shelf passive crossover that closely matches the specs on your drivers.
    If you’re not sure, give someone at Parts Express a call.
    Or go to:
    https://www.parts-express.com
    and look for their questions and answers link.
    That’s what I done, when I once had it in my mind to rebuild a pare of speakers I have here now.
    Long story short, I couldn’t be more happier, then I am right now!
    Sorry guise, I can’t offer any advice on microDSP or active crossovers.
    I don’t know enough about them to give any advice on those.
    But analog active crossovers, I can tell you an offel lot of things about those.
    To me, the best ones, uses tubes.

  2. Back in 1977 when I went shopping for a real stereo I ended up in a local shop in my town of birth that happen to have a display pair of Altec “voice of the theater“
    bi- amped speakers. I was intrigued by that and they sounded great and large.
    They were internally bi- amped, so electronic crossover built right into the into the amp in the back of the box, and I kept them till about 1985 or so.
    Sold them to an older gentleman, delivered them, set them up, integrated them with his system and he was ecstatic . I have fond memories of the many times in my youth that I move those big monsters, but with modern technology I don’t miss the sound.
    I’ve essentially had bi-amped setups ever since.

  3. I employ a miniDSP as an active Xover between woofer and beyma coax (I built a passive crossover for the coax driver) and biamp. With the mini you can not only adjust the Xover point and filter type, it provides the opportunity via a parametric EQ to address frequency peaks and valleys > just don’t overfit (address the peaks more so than the nulls).

    (For the purists, do yourself a favor and do not compare your ‘at speaker’ measurement to your ‘at listening area’ measurements. I found it to be a real eye opener.)

    It is, IMO, a solid value and easy to set-up. Pull up their web page and take a look.

    And if you are looking at rolling your own, check out https://midwestaudio.club

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